Machine for stitching shoes



Oct. 11, 1938, A. G. MoussET MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHOES Filed March 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 effndre' 6'. Mousse? 8- A. G. MOUSSET 32,797

MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHOES Filed March 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 o 1933- A. G. MOUSSET MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHOES Filed March 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Oct. 11, 1938. A. G. MOUSSET 2,132,797

MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHOES Filed March 28, 1936 H 6 SheetsSheet 4 00 0 8 m \a 5) 0 33 i 0 LEM 1: a

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MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHOES Filed March 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 m Inv'nfbr R 5min? (T7. Max:968

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I Oct. 11, 1938. I A. G. MOUSSET 2,132,797

MACHINE FOR STITGHING SHOES u ndre & Mound eEZZ'ormsjS.

Patented Oct. 1 1, I938 PATENT OFFICE ,7 2,132,191 mom son STITCHING snons Andl' Gabriel Mousset. Sh-Maude, mm

Application March as, 1936, Serial No. 71,490 In France April 8, 1935 14 Claims. (Cl. 112-35) The present invention relates to a machine for stitching shoes either according to a first modification by chain stitching or according to another modification, by shuttle stitching.

a The present invention has for its object to provide, with the greatest simplicity of movement, a machine operating with an awl which prepares the passage of the needle, thereby enabling needles with a hook of conventional type to be used whereas this is impossible to obtain when the needle is itself obliged to perforate the work, since a grooved perforating needle is necessarily a needle having an eye, therefore .fragile and very costly and if it were given a small curve it 5 would break owing to such curve and to the resistance encountered. On the contrary, according to the invention, as the awl makes the hole, the needle can be of the current type with ahook of conventional type.

This machine is characterized by the fact that it comprises a segmental awl, which pierces a hole in the work, is then displaced sideways feeding thework the length of a stitch and coming into position under the needle which is itself seg mental, the awl and the needle then rotating together so that the needle passes in the hole made by the awl, after which the latter having come out of the work moves sideways and a looper places the thread on the hook of the needle, which then moves upwards through the work pulling with it a loop of thread.

According to the invention, the needle is carried by a toothedsegment swinging about its centre on the frame of the machine and actuated by another toothed segment carried by a lever also swinging on the frame in a vertical plane, called needle lever, and the movements of which are controlled by a vertical cam plate in a groove of which penetrates a roller carried by the needle lever.

Likewise according to the invention, the awl and its control system are carried by a lever swinging on the frame about a vertical axis, called feed lever, which is displaced by the lat- .1 eral projection of the cam plate acting on a roller carried by the lever, to bring the awl under the needle, and which is returned to the position of rest by means of a spring.

The control system of the rotating movement of the awl, mounted on the feed lever, consists of a toothed segment, which carries the awl, swinging about its centre under the action of another toothed segment carried by a lever, called awl lever, which swings in a vertical plane under the action of the cam plate which has for this purthat a projection which it carries encounters a fixed abutment carried by the frame, so that the head of the looper, owing to the combination of the two pivoting movements, describes about the head of the needle a spiral while pressing the thread against the needle. 7

The presser-foot is held pressed on the work owing to the fact that it carries an arm connected by a link to a lever at one end of which is a roller bearing on the periphery of the cam plate and which holds the lever, and with it the presser-foot, in a locked position, save when the roller is opposite notches provided for this purpose in the periphery of the cam plate.

According'to the invention, the lever carrying the presser-foot locking roller is in two parts connected to each other by a spring, so as to be able to yield by a variable quantity necessitated by the differences of thickness of the work on which the. presser-foot bears.

When the locking lever is in the locking position, it releases a spring-pressed pawl which engages in a toothing of the link connecting the presser-foot to the locking lever, for thepurpose of holding said link stationary and with it 'the presser-foot.

In the embodiment of the machine permitting chain stitch to be made, on the spindle of the toothed segment carrying the needle is mounted a member, carrying a needle guide and hook guard, and the movement of which, when the needle descends, is first of all braked but which is then pushed by a spring overcoming the action of the brake to cause these parts to move downwards against the'work and to hold them pressed against the latter when the needle moves upwards until a stop of the needle segment positively moves these parts.

On the arm of the presser-foot slides a guide carried by the end of a lever, called thread feed lever, pivotally mounted through a bell-crank on the needle lever and which takes up a position which depends on the slope of the presserfoot arm, that is to saythe thickness of the work on which said presser-foot presses, this modification of position causing, by means of the bellcrank which connects said levers, the end of stroke position of the needle lever to be varied, so that the point to which the needle lever pulls the thread depends on the thickness of the work.'

In the embodiment of the machine enabling lock stitch to be made, a shuttle mechanism is composed of a rotary shuttle mounted on the end of a shaft perpendicular to the shaft on which is mounted the cam plate controlling the members of the machine and rotated by the said shaft, so that the rotary shuttle makes two revolutions for one revolution of the main shaft of the machine.

A spreader mechanism is composed of a hook carried by an arm which can oscillate in two perpendicular planes and the oscillations of which are controlled in said two planes by two rollers one bearing on the side of the cam plate and the other on the periphery of the latter, said side and said periphery having, at the places on which said rollers bear, shapes such that the hook located at the end of the arm takes up one of the threads of the loop of the lower thread which has been pulled by the needle through the work, places said loop on a hook of the shuttle and then releases it, the shuttle then passing, owing to its rotation, said loop of thread around the thread issuing from.- the reel or upper thread, so as to carry it with it into the work.

A mechanism for tensioning the lower thread comprises a carriage over which passes the thread, the movements of said carriage being controlled by a special cam carried by the shaft of the cam plate and which carries a roller on which passes the lower thread, the carriage, in moving towards the needle side of the machine allowing the thread to slacken so that the needle, during its travel, can freely pull the thread coming from the feed reel, the carriage then returning towards the rear when the lower thread has made a loop round the upper thread to pull said loop and to enclose it in the work, imprlsoning the upper thread.

Other advantages and peculiarities of the invention will become apparent from the ensuing description of an embodiment of the machine enabling chain stitch to be made, of the modiflcations to be made therein to make shuttle stitch, said description made withreference to accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a side view of the machine such as it is arranged for making chain stitch.

Fig. 2 is an end view looking from the left side of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a similar view of certain members in another position of operation.

Fig. 4 shows the machine from the opposite side to Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a similar view showing the parts in another position of operation.

the comprehension of the special embodiment.

having been shown for the sake of greater clarity.

Fig. 9 is an end view looking from left side.

of-Fig. 8, and similar to that of Fig. 2. As above, only the parts necessary for the comprehension of the special embodiment have been shown.

Fig. 10 is a plan view of the parts of the machine which do not exist in the embodiment enabling chain stitch to be made.

The machine according to the invention has, as a main control member, a cam plate I mounted on a frame which, for greater simplicity, has

not been shown or has'only been shown partially in most of the figures. All the parts of said frame which are visible on the figures are designated by. the reference numeral 2. Said cam plate I is actuated in any appropriate manner, either by hand, for example by means of a handle fixedly mounted on same or acting through the instrumentality of a gearing and mounted on the frame, like the cam plate, or by means of a motor trans mittlng the movement through the instrumentality of a pulley keyed on the shaft of the cam plate. Said cam plate controls through the instrumentality of grooves or projections arranged on each side or on its periphery, a certain number of control levers.

On the frame is pivotally mounted a lever 3 (Figs. 1 and '7) which can be called feed lever for a reason which will appear hereinafter. The pivot 4 of said lever is vertical so that the lever moves along in a horizontal plane and has at its left end, in Fig. l, a fork 5 which fits over a fixed portion of the frame 2 thereby ensuring the guiding of the lever. The displacement of said lever is obtained by the fact that it carries a roller 6 having a vertical spindle and which bears against the cam plate i on the opposite side to Fig. 1. Said cam plate has laterally, at a suitable point, a projection 3' which, when the machine is viewed in plan and said projection passes against the roller, rotates the lever in the clockwise direction. On the other hand, said lever is returned to its neutral position by a spring 1 (Figs. 2 and 3) which bears on the one hand on the frame 2 of the machine and, on the other hand against one side of the lever 3. The lever 3 is urged back by the spring 1 until it abuts against a screw 8 adapted to be screwed more or less into the frame 2 to project more or less inside the latter and engage the other side of the lever thereby enabling the position in which the lever 3 stops to be regulated. A lock nut 3 enables the screw 8 to be locked in the desired position of adjustment so as to prevent accidental unscrewing. It will be seen that inthis manner the lever 3 rocks between two positions one of which, the extreme left position which can be seen in Fig. 3, is deflnitely determined by the projection of the cam plate acting on the roller 6 (Fig. 7) whereas the other can be regulated by means of thescrew 8.

The feed lever 3 carries at its left end (Fig. 1) an upwardly projecting extension III which carries at its upper end a spindle i i about which can rotate a toothed segment I2 to which an awl I3 is secured (Fig. 1) the point of which can, moreover, be seen in Fig. 2.

The feed lever 3 carries a horizontal spindle it about which swings a lever l5 or awl lever which carries at its left end (Fig. 1) a toothed segment it which meshes with the segment l2. Said lever I5 carries a roller I! which penetrates into a groove l8 of the cam plate i so that when the said cam plate I rotates, the lever i5 is raised onlow ered according to whether the point of the groove I 8 where the roller i1 is located, is nearer to or further from the centre of rotation of the cam plate I. These raising movements of the lever ll cause, through the instrumentality of the oothed segment IS, the rotation of the segment I! and with it, of the awl l3 which it carries, bout the spindle ll. As will be understood rom the foregoing, the lever II with its toothed gment IS, the lever i2 and the awl l3 being amplitude since it is reduced, relatively to the displacement of the end of theextension ID of the lever arm 3, proportionally to the distances of said extension ill and of the roller l1 relatively to the pivot axis 4 and that, on the other hand,

amplitude- On the same side of the cam plate I as the levers 3 and |5,(Fig. 1) is another lever l9 which swings on the frame of the machine about a pin 20. The

the cam plate I by means of a roller 21 carried by the end of the lever l9 and constantly pressed against a projection 22 of the cam plate I. The lever i9 or looper lever carries at its end a looper 23 (see also Fig. 2). Said looper has at its upper end an opening'24 in which passes the mounted on the lever I9, that is the looper 2.3 can swing about the pin 25. Finally the looper has an extension 26. When the lever l9 swings about the pin 20, the looper is lifted and the projection 26 which it carries encounters a fixed abutment 21 carried by the frame 2, thereby rotating the looper about the pin 25. The two pivotal movements a hook 39.

of the looper about the pin 25 and of the lever l9 which carries it, about the pin 20, cause the hole 24 of the looper, through which passes the thread, to describe in space a trajectory in the form of an arc of a spiral which presses the thread pulled by the looper against the needle, at

the time when the latter is in a suitable position.

On the side of the cam plate i opposite that which These two levers are themselves pivotally mounted at their left end, Fig. 3, on a bell-crank 30, which pivots'at 3| on the frame of the machine. The lever 29 and the bell-crank 30 constitute a kind of toggle the purpose of which will be explained hereinafter. The lever 28 carries a roller 32 penetrating into-a groove 33 of the cam plate I and the lever 29 carries a roller 34 penetrating into a groove 35 of the cam plate I. The two grooves 33 and 34 are substantially parallel so that the two levers move approximately in synchronism.

The lever .29 ends in a toothed segment 36 which meshes with a toothed segment 31 carrying the needle 38, which, as will be seen in the drawings, is of segmental shape and has at its free end The toothed segment 31 with the needle 38 rotate about a fixed spindle 49 carried by the frame of the machine.

segments." It should be noted that the lever l perpendicular to the cam plate is of very small the displacement of the end It is itself of small displacements of said lever are also controlled by thread serving to sew. The looper 23 is pivotally On the frame 2 of the machine, is further mounted the presser-foot 4| which'rotates about the' twopart pin 42 and its end 43 can thus press on the work which is held from below by a fixed support 44, that is to say which is permanently mountedon the frame of the machine.

A rod 45 is secured to the presser-foot 4| and said rod passes in a guide 46 pivotally mounted on'the end of the arm 23. On the other hand on the lower end of the rod 45 is pivotally mounted a link 41 the end of which has a series of teeth forming a rack 43. On the link" is further pivotally mounted a rod 49 which is constantly urged against a lever 59 owing to the fact that the rod 49 is secured to a pin 5| which is at right angles to the latter, passes in a suitable hole in the lever 59 and around which is a spring 52 which bears on one side on the lever 50 and on the other side on a nut 53 screwed on the end of the pin 5| and which enables the tension of the spring 52 to be adjusted. The lever 59 is pivoted at 54 on the frame of the machine and has a bent extension 55 which is secured to it and which carries at its end a roller 56 which bears against the periphery of the cam plate I.

At its lower end, the lever 50 carries an ex- ,tension which bears against an arm 51 the bevelled end of which can engage with the teeth of the rack 48 when the lever '50 has moved so that its end is lodged in a notch 58 of the arm 51. The nose of the arm 51 lodgesitself between the teeth of the rack 48 when the lever 50 does not hold said arm away owing to the fact that said arm is constantly urged upwards by a leaf spring 59.

Near the foregoing parts, is the feed roller 60 on which is wound the thread 6| which goes to the looper 23 passing through a waxing box 62 and over a counter roller 63. 1

On the same pin 40 as the needle segment is mounted a disc 64 which carries a needle guide 65 (Figs. 2, 4 and 5) serving also as a hook-guard. If desired, two special parts could be provided for the needle guide and the hook-guard, said two parts both being mounted on the disc 64- The disc 64 is surrounded by a resilient collar 66 forming a brake. Finally a spring 61 is fixed at oneend to the toothed segment 31 carrying the needle and its other end bears freely against the needle guide 65. i

This machine operates in the following manner.

In Figs. 1, 2 and 5 the parts have been shown in the position which they occupy when the work 68 on which the machine is to operate is to be introduced into the machine, the Dresser-foot is then in the position shown in Fig. 5 with its nose 43 lifted from the work. The presser-foot is then lowered by hand. on the work using for this purpose the handle 69 or again the lowering takes place automatically when the cam plate I begins to rotate. The cam plate rotates, in Figs. 4 and 5, in the direction shown by the arrow and in Fig. 1, in the opposite direction since said cam is seen from the other side. It therefore can be seen that as soon as the cam plate has rotated sufficiently for the roller 56 carried by the lever 5055 to be no longer in the notch provided on the periphery of the cam plate I, said leveris compelled to rotate about the pivot 54 in a clockwise direction, carrying with it the lever 49, the link 41 and causing the presser-foot 4| to swing through the instrumentality of the rod 45 to which it is secured; the presser-foot is thus pressed against the work; since the thickness of the work can vary while the roller 56 and with it the lever 50-55 are brought into a position which is always the same as soon as the presserfoot is pressed on .the work, the lever moves away from the rod 49 compressing the spring 52. At the same time as the lever 50-55 has moved, its lower end has come into the notch of the lever 51 (see Fig. 4) which is thus capable of lifting itself under the action of the spring 59 and its bevelled end lodges itself in one of the teeth of the rack 48 thus locking the link." and, with it the presser-foot which is lowered on the work.

When this locking of the presser-foot has been effected the following movement, obtained when the cam plate I rotates, ls the displacement of the awl owing to the lowering of the lever [5 (Fig. l) said lever l5 rotates, owing to the toothed segment I5, the segment I! and with it the awl l3 which moves upwards making a hole in the work. When this piercing has been effected the following movement is the rotation of the feed lever 3 about its pivot l owing to the fact that the lateral projection 3' of the cam plate pushes the roller 5 carried by the lever 3 (see Fig. 7) The lever 3 by swinging in this manner causes the displacement of the awl I3 from the position which it occupied hitherto (position of Fig. 2, but after the awl has been raised and the work perforated) to bring it into the position of Fig. 3, in which it is exactly opposite and under the point of the needle 39. As has already been stated, this extreme left position of the awl is al- 'ways the same in view of the fact that it is determined by the displacement of .the lever 3 under the action of the projection 3' of the cam plate and of the roller 5. On the other hand, the initial or right hand position, looking at Figs. 2 and 3, of the awl and of the lever 3 depends on the adjustment effected by means of the screw 8. According to what has just been explained,

the awl l3 has moved after having perforated the work and has consequently carried with it said work by the length of a stitch. Said length is therefore adjustable by means of the screw 8 as has just been explained. On the other hand, as will be understood, it is the lever 3 which controls the feeding of the work under the needle and this is the reason why it has hereinbefore been called feed lever.

It must be pointed out that during the displacement of the awl l3 carrying along the work, the presser-foot must no longer be pressed on the latter. This is obtained owing to the fact that opposite the roller 55 there is, during said displacement of the awl, a notch 55' and, .consequently the various parts 55, 55, 50, I1, 45 come back to the position which they occupy in Fig; 5,

but immediately after, the roller 55 bears again on the periphery of the cam plate I and the presser-foot is again locked, as shown in Fig. 4.

The awl l3 having thus come under the needle 39, the movements which follow are simultaneously a downward movement of the awl by the up-eoming of the lever l5 which controls it and a downwards movement of the needle which takes place in harmony therewith, the needle immediately following the awl to penetrate into the hole which has been made by the latter. The needle has then descended below the work, in which position it is shown in Fig. 3. As soon as the awl l3 has descended again below the work, the projection 3' of the cam plate I is no longer opposite the roller 5, the lever 3 is released and is pushed back towards the right (Figs. 2 and 3) under the action of the spring 1, the awl therefore returns at this moment to its initialposiwork (Fig. 4).

tlon. Immediately afterwards the lever ll of the looper 23 is lifted under the action of the roller 2| rolling on the projection 22 of thecam plate. Thus as has already been stated, at the same time as said lever is lifted with the looper 23, the extension 25 of the latter bears against the abutment 21 causing the looper to swing about the pin 25, so that the hole 2| in which passes the thread describes a curve in the shape of an arc of a spiral placing the thread against the needle, said thread coming from the left, from the preceding stitch which has been carried along with the work towards the left (Fig. 2). Immediately afterwards the needle moves upwards again and the thread which is pressed against it catches in the hook 39. The needle as it comes back to the upper part of the work carries with it a loop of thread which thus passes through the work.

During the displacements of the needle the hook-guard and needle guide 55 has moved in the following manner. At the beginning of the stroke of the needle starting from the position of Fig. 5, the disc 55 which is pressed in the brake 55 is not carried along by the hub of the toothed segment 31 which rotates, beside it, rubbing against it, but owing to this fact, the spring 51 is compressed since on the one hand it bears against said hook-guard 55 which does not move and that, on the other hand its other end is mounted on the segment 51. Consequently, after a certain time of rotation, the tension of the spring 51 is sufncient to overcome the resistance oifered by the brake and the hook-guard is carried along by the action of the spring 51 and when the needle moves downwards to its extreme position after having passed through the work, said hook-guard itself bears against the When the needle moves upwards again the hook-guard 55 is again braked by the part 55 and remains pressed against the work while the spring 51 relaxes. But aftera certain time, a projection 15 carried by the hub of the segment 31 lifts the rod carrying the hook-guard 55 and carries the latter along. During this movement the hook-guard completely covers the hook of the needle and prevents said hook from carryingwith it the thread of the loop which it has left on the work duringthe preceding cycle and through which it has just drawn a fresh loop.

When, during the following cycle the needle begins to move downwards again, as seen above, the needle begins by disengaging itself completely from the hook-guard which remains braked and then it moves downwards through the work, letting go the thread which'it has pulled, and which disengages itself from the hook and forms a loop of thread through which said needle passes, to fetch a fresh thread below the work in the manner explained above. As will be seen, the machine in operating in this manner effects a chain stitch through the work and each time that it pulls a loop in moving upwards through the work, said loop is made on the one hand by pulling thread from the loop which was formed during the'preceding stitch and which is thus tightened and, on the other hand, by pulling from the reel 50 the quantity of complementary thread necessary to form a fresh loop.

The displacements of the needle are obtained by means of the toothed segment 31 on which it is mounted, and which is controlled by the segment 35 mounted atthe end of the lever 39 the upward and downward-movements of which are obtained by means of the roller 34 carried by the position shown in dot and dash lines.

9,182,797 said lever moving in the groove 85 of the cam plate I. As has already been stated, a second lever' 28 is associated with said lever 28 and carries at its end a guide 48 sliding on the rod 45 of the presser-foot.

When the needle 38 has completelydescended through the work (Fig. 4) the guide 45 comes, on the rod 45, to a position which corresponds exactly to the fulcrum of the resser-foot, that is to say between the two pin sections 42. This position is therefore always the same whatever he the slope of the presser-foot, which slope depends of course on the thickness of the work on which it is pressed. On the contrary, when said two levers 28, 29 come into the position of'Fig. 5, which corresponds to the upper end position of the needle, the guide 46 has slid on the rod 45 and its position is not always the same, said position depending on the slope of the rod 45, that is to say, finally on the thickness of the work on which the presser-foot bears. Consequently as can be clearly seen in Fig. 6 where the various members have been shown diagrammatically,

the guide 46 can advance more or less causing a longitudinal displacement of the lever 28. In Fig. 6 two diiferent positions of these members have been shown in exaggerated manner; one of these positions being designated by the sign According to whether the guide 46 is in the position 46 or 46', it causes the bell-crank 30 to rotate more or less about the point 3|, and when said bell-crank has rotated, the end of the lever 29 which is pivotally mounted on it can lift itself more or lessby swinging about the roller 34. Consequently it ensues that the toothed segment 36 will be raised more or less. If it is assumed that a stitch has been effected on a work of small thickness, the ,rod 45 of the presser-foot is nearly vertical, and occupies the position 45 in Fig. 6 and the other parts occupy If at a certain time the work becomes thicker the rod 45 will be more inclined and take up the position 45 at the end of the up stroke of the needle. Consequently it ensues from the explanation of the various movements which has just been given that the segment 36 will descendmore than it did when it was in the position 36, the segment 3'! has therefore rotated more and the needle 38 is raised higher.

It will therefore be seen that the limit of the down stroke of the needle belowthe work is always the same, since as has been stated, it corresponds to the upperposition of a guide 46 which, in this case, always comes on the pin 42, whereas the extreme position of the needle is the more raised as the thickness of the work is greater, so that the length of the loop pulled by the needle is always the same above the work whatever be the thickness of the latter.

, The embodiment of the machine enabling lock stitch to be made will now be described.

As stated above, this embodiment comprises with respect to the above described machine three additional mechanisms: the rotary shuttle mechanism, the loop spreader mechanism and the thread tensioning mechanism.

on the other hand, certain members described above are eliminated or modified viz:

The lever 28 is eliminated and the lever 29 swings directly on the pin 3| instead of through the instrumentality of the bell-crank 30.

The hook-guard and needle guide mechanism 65 as well as the associated devices; disk 64 carrying' same, brakecollar 65 and spring 61 are also eliminated.

-The rotary shuttle mechanism comprises a rotary shuttle (Fig. 10) 'll mounted at the end of shaft 12 carrying at its other end a bevel pinion "l3 meshing with a bevel pinion 14 carried by the shaft l' of the cam plate I, the pinions 13 and 14 being such that the shaft 12 effects two revolutions while the shaft l' or, consequently the cam plate I, effects a single revolution. In

the shuttle II is mounted the bobbin 15 which is held in position in the shuttle H by means of a hook-shaped arm 16 fulcrumed at 11 on the frame of the machine and which tends to move away from the position it occupies in Fig. 10 by rotating about its pivot in the clockwise direction under the action of a spring 18, the hook 16 is, nevertheless held in the position which it occupies in Fig. 10 against the action of the spring 18 by means of a projection 19 carried by a lever 80 (see also Fig. 9), which pivots on the frame of the machinebut which is held by a spring iii in a raised position, that is to say a position in which the projection 19 is behind the hook T6 and holds it in position in front of the bobbin. By moving the lever 80 downwards, the projection 19 is withdrawnjrom behind the hook l6 and the latter then rotates by itself under the action of the spring 18 disengaging the bobbin which can thus be withdrawn from the shuttle. It must be pointed out that as soon as the lever 16 has turned slightly under the action of the spring I8 it places itself above the projection 19 which has been lowered and which can no longer raise itself again under the action of the spring 8| even if at this time the handle 80 is released.

After having thus rotated the hook 16 in order to enable, for example, the bobbin to be changed and after a fresh bobbin has been put into position, the lever 16 is rotated by hand so as to bring it in front of the fresh bobbin. By thus pushing the lever 16, the latter is no longer above the projection 19 and the latter with the lever 80 which carries it, is lifted under the action of the spring 8i and thus automatically locks the'lever 16 at the rear. It will thus be seen that the two movements, both of opening and of closing the hook are effected by means of a single operation, the movement of one of the two parts 80 and I6 automatically permitting the displacement of the second which then locks the first.

e The rotary shuttle H carries at a point a hook 82 (Fig. 9) the purpose of which will be explained hereinafter.

The second particular mechanism of this embodiment, or loop spreading mechanism comprises the following members:

A hook 83 is mounted at the end of a lever 84 which can swing on the frame of the machine in all directions. For this purpose it is carried cam plate encountered by the roller '89. On the other handthe lever 84 carries an extension 90 which is secured to it and at the end of which is a roller 9| bearing onthe periphery of the cam plate I and the differences of level of said periphery at the point where the roller 9I bears, control the displacements of the lever 84 in a vertical plane. It therefore ensues owing to the combined movement of the two rollers 09 and 9| under the action of the cam plate I,that the hook 83 can eflect the required trajectory by movement in all directions.

, An oblique spring84' fixed to the lever 84 and to the frame always retracts the latter by bearing the two rollers 89 and 9| against the cam plate I.

The hook 83 is adjustable at the end of the lever 34. For this purpose the hook 83 is carried by a pin 83' which passes in a split sleeve 09' provided at the end of the lever 84. The two sides of the split sleeve are clamped on the pin 93' by means of a screw 80'. By unscrewing said screw the pin 83' is free to rotate or to slide 111 the sleeve 86' thereby enabling the hook to move in two manners for its adjustment. When it is in the correct position, it is fixed thereby locking the pin 83' by tightening the two edges of the split sleeve by means of the screw The third mechanism or thread tensioning mechanism, visible particularly in Fig. 8, comprises a kind of caniage 92 carrying a grooved wheel 93 over which passes the lower thread 6|, commg from the feed reel 50 after having passed over a counterguide 94. Said thread passes furthermore over another fixed counterwheel carried by the frame 2, before passing in the hole of the looper 23. To the carriage 92, is

connected a link 96 itself pivotally mounted on a lever 91 fulcrumed at 98 on the frame of the machine and provided at its other end with a roller 99 which bears on the periphery of a cam I00. (see also Fig. 10) secured to the same pin I as the cam plate I. The cam I00 therefore rotates at the same time as the cam plate I. A spring 91' connected to the lever 91 and to the frame, constantly retracts said lever pressing the roller 99 against the cam I00.

In fact the pulley 93 is not directly mounted on the carriage 92, but through the instrumentality of a resilient system. The pulley 93 is carried by a member IN to which is secured a rod I02 passing in a boring of the carriage 92 and a spring I03 mounted on the rod I02 bears on one side against the carriage 92 and on the other side against the plate I04 fixed to the end of the rod I02 thus tending to bear the part IOI against the carriage 92, but being able to yield resiliently. Consequently,,when the carriage 92 moves towards the right looking at Fig. 8 it carries with it the part IM and the roller 93 and consequently it pulls the thread BI but the spring I03 ensures the assembly a certain resiliency and prevents too sudden shocks on the thread 6|.

This embodiment of the machine operates in the following manner.

All the operations take place as has been described above in connection with the first embodiment, that is to say when the presser-foot immediately followed by the needle in the hook 39 of which the looper 23 places a loop of lower thread GI which then moves upwards again with the needle, passing through the work. All these operations have been described in detail with reference to the first embodiment, however during this upward movement of the thread;the cam I00 has caused the displacement of the carriage 92 towards the left looking at Fig. 1, thereby releasing, to enable the formation of said loop,

a certain quantity of thread to which is added another quantity drawn from the reel 90.

When the needle 38 has moved upwards again to its upper'position pulling with it a loop of thread, the hook 83 comes into action and, as will be seen in Fig. 9, it introduces itself between the two strands of thread 8| pulled by the hook 39. It hooks one of said strands and then moves up again to place the thread, which it has thus taken up, on the hook 82 of the shuttle II which rotates with the latter in the counterclockwise direction looking at Fig. 9 and which has at this time come into the desired position of the periphery of the shuttle to receive said thread. When the thread, is hooked under the hook 23 of the shuttle, the hook 23 moves backwards to disengage from said thread and as on the other hand the latter is still raised on the periphery of the shuttle it also disengages itself from the hook 39 of the needle 39. The thread BI is then carried along by the shuttle 'II which rotates and during said rotation, it makes a loop about the bobbin 15, which loop surrounds the upper thread a which issues from said bobbin. During the whole of this operation the carriage 92 has continued to move to the left (Fig. 8) where it is at the time when the greatest length of thread is necessary above the work, which thread is pulled from the reel 60 and passes over the wheels 93, 95 and uide 94.

As soon as the loop of thread GI has gone past the centre of the shuttle, the carriage 92 is retracted towards the right carrying back with it the excess of thread 6 I. This thread then crosses the thread a coming from the bobbin, in the middle of the thickness to be sewed. v

As has been seen above, the shuttle makes two revolutions during a cycle of operation of the machine. After having thus caused the crossing of the thread it effects another idle turn during the termination of the cycle.

The carriage 92 which causes the retraction of the thread is controlled'by the profile of the cam I00. This profile is established, in combination with the pull on the thread under the action of the movement of the machine, in such a manner that the wheel 93 is approximately between the two extreme abutment positions so that the thread is always slightly tensioned, but without being taut.

On the other hand, the reel 60 is braked, in such a manner that during the retraction of the thread, by the tensioning device, the latter effectively pulls the loop of thread which has passed above the work and not the thread coming from the reel 90. In any case, the counterguide 94 over which the thread passes with considerable friction increases the resistance due to the braking of the reel, so that it is the thread which has passed into the work which is pulled back by the tensioning system.

When the carriage 92 has completely returned towards the rear the same cycle of operations as above is renewed to effect the following stitch.

As will be realized from the foregoing descriptate on said frame, a

tion, this machine is of extremely compact construction and the whole of the front of the machine on which the sewing is done is entirely free. It only has a very' limited number of parts while effecting the same work as the much more complicated machines which exist at the present day. As has been stated above, it enables needles to be ,used having a hook of small radius of curvature and the price of which is much lessthan those used in existing machines. On the other hand, the feeding of the work is such that the latter is released from all pressure during the feeding, thereby enabling hard or stiff materials to be sewn without adjustment. On nearly all the existing machines, on the contrary, the presserfoot drags on the work during the feeding, thereby necessitating an adjustment when the consistency is different, for example when working on leather orrubber. 20

It is understood that the invention has only been described herein in an explanatory and in no way lirnitative manner and that it can have any variation or modification of detail coming within the scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. A shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a-frame, a cam plate adapted to ropresser-foot mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said presser-foot, a feed lever pivotally mounted on said frame, means actuated by said cam plate for controlling said feed lever, an awl lever pivotally mounted on said feed lever, means actuated by said cam plate for controlling said awl lever, a segmental awl mounted in said feed lever and adapted to pierce a hole in the work, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl and said work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a looper pivotally mounted on said frame, and means actuated by the said -cam plate for controlling said looper.

2. A; shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a frame, a vertical cam plate adapted to rotate on said frame, a. presser-foot mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said presser-foot, a feed lever pivotally mounted on said frame and pivoting in a horizontal plane, means actuated by said cam plate for controlling said feed lever,

an awl pivotally mounted on said feed lever,

means actuated by said cam plate for controlling said awl, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl and said work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a looper pivotally mounted on said frame, and means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said looper.

3. In a shoe stitching machine according to claim 1, a toothed segment secured to the awl, a toothed segment. secured to the awl lever and meshing with the first toothed segment, said feed lever being controlled by the cam plate and pivoting on, the frame of the machine, its pivotal axis being perpendicular to that of the awl lever.

4. In a shoe stitching machine according to claim 2, a toothed segment an awl lever pivoting in a vertical plane on the feed lever, a toothed segment secured to the awl lever and meshing with the first toothed segment, said feed lever being controlled by the cam plate secured to the awl,

and pivoting in a horizontal plane on the frame of the machine.

5. In a shoe stitching machine according to claim 1, a presser-foot pressing on the work, a locking lever pivoting on the frame and carrying a roller rolling on the periphery of the cam plate,

and a link connecting said lever to the presserfoot.

6. In a shoe stitching machine according to claim 1, a rotary shuttle mounted at the end of a rotating shaft, perpendicular to the axis'of the cam plate and actuated by the latter so that the spindle of the shuttle. does two revolutions for one of the cam plate.

7. In a shoe stitching machine according to claim 1, a rotary shuttle mounted at the end of a rotating shaft, perpendicular to the axis of the cam plate and actuated by the latter so that the spindle of the'shuttle does two revolutions for one of the cam plate, a hook placing on the shuttle the lower thread which has passed through the work, a pivoting arm carrying said hook and mounted on a pivot, a roller carried by an extension of said arm, rolling on the cam plate, a support for the pivot of said arm, said support pivoting on the frame about an axis perpendicular to said pivot, a roller secured to said support and rolling on the cam plate.

8. In a shoe stitching machine according to claim 1, a rotary shuttle mounted at the end of a rotating shaft, perpendicular to the axis of the cam plate and actuated by the latter so that the spindle of the shuttle does two revolutions for one of the cam plate, a roller on which passes the lower thread, a carriage moving on the frame and carrying resiliently said roller, a cam carried by the spindle of the cam plate, a, pivoting lever carrying at its end a roller rolling on the said cam, a link connecting said lever to the carriage, a spring constantly pressing the roller on the said cam plate. 7

9. In a shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a frame, a cam plate adapted to rotate on said'frame, a presser-foot mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam.

plate for controlling said presser-foot, a feed lever pivotally mounted on saidframe, a segmental awl mounted in said lever and adapted to pierce a hole in the work, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said awl, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl and said work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a looper lever, pivoting on the frame and carrying a roller continually urged against a projection of thei cam plate, a looper pivotally mounted at the end of said lever opposite said roller, its pivotal axis being perpendicular to that of the looper leverand a fixed portion of the frame against which a projection of the looper abuts when the looper lever rocks.

10. A shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a frame, a vertical cam plate adapted to rotate on said frame, a presser-foot mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said presser-foot, a feed lever pivotally mounted on said frame and pivoting in a horizontal plane, a segmental awl mounted in said lever and adapted to pierce a hole in the work, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said awl, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl and said work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a looper lever pivoting on the frame with a horizontal pivotal axis and carrying a roller continually urged against a projection of the cam plate, a looper pivotally mounted at the end of said lever opposite said roller, its pivotal axis being perpendicular to that of the looper lever and a fixed portion of the frame against which a projection of the looper abuts when the looper lever rocks. I

11. A shoe stitching-machine comprising in combination a frame, a cam plate adapted to rotate on said frame, a presser-foot mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a toothed segment secured to the needle, a member mounted on the spindle of said toothed segment and carrying a needle guide and a hook-guard, a brake retarding the movement of said member atthe beginning of the rotation, a spring placed under tension by the rotation, urging the member against the action of the brake and holding the hook-guard pressed against the work during the displacement of the needle, a looper pivotally mounted on said frame, and means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said looper.

12. A shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a frame, a cam plate adapted to rotate on said frame, a presser-foot pressing on the work, a locking lever pivoting on the frame and consisting of two parts urged against each other by a spring, a roller carried by one of said parts and rolling on the periphery of the cam plate, the other part being connected by a link to the presser-foot, a feed lever pivotally mounted on said frame, a segmental awl mounted in said lever and adapted to pierce a hole in the work, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said awl, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl and said work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a looper pivotally mounted on said frame, and means actuated by,

the said cam plate for controlling said-looper.

13. A shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a frame, a cam plate adapted to rotate on said frame, a presser-foot pressing on the work, a locking lever pivoting on the frame and a roller carried by said locking lever, rolling on the periphery of the cam plate, a link connecting said lever to the presser-foot and carry ing a toothing, a pawl urged by a spring and engaging with said toothing but being held away from the toothing by the locking lever when the latter is not holding the presser-foot pressed on the work, a feed lever pivotally mounted on said frame, a segmental awl mounted in said lever and adapted to pierce a hole in the work, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said awl, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl and said work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, a looper pivotally mounted on said frame, and means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said looper.

14. A shoe stitching machine comprising in combination a frame, a cam plate adapted to rotate on said frame, a presser-foot pressing on thework, a rod secured to said presser-foot, a guide sliding on said rod, athread feed lever carrying said guide, and carrying a projection which moves in a groove of the cam plate, a bell crank pivoting on the frame on one of the arms of which is pivoted said thread feed lever and on the other arm of which pivots the needle lever, said needle lever carrying a projection which moves in a groove of the cam plate, a feed lever pivotally mounted on said frame, a segmental awl mounted in said lever and adapted to pierce a hole in the work, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said awl, means operative when said awl is in the work to displace said awl andsaid work laterally by the length of one stitch, a segmental needle rotatably mounted on said frame, means actuated by the said cam plate for controlling said needle, 9. looper pivotally mounted on said frame, and means actuated by the said cam plate'for controlling said looper.

ANDRE GABRIEL MOUSSET. 

